How does the shape of fans affect the finished look?
Sometimes the problem is not where you expect. It may look like your fans are not fluffy enough, and you have to master more volume. However, all you have to do is to correct the shape of your fans, and the quality of your work will magically increase at times!
Today we’ll talk about how wrong fans can spoil your work and what you can do about it!
Bear in mind two equally important aspects while creating a fan: the fan itself (subdivides into fan width and fan uniformity) and the base.
- Fan base
The base is an important aspect of the correct shape of the fan, it consists of length and composition.
The whole base length should be 1/4 to 1/3 of the fan’s length. The base length is connected with the fan width, but that is not the same.
Too long stem (about half of the fan length) will lead to too little fan and will make it close up. You will also end up with a long base if your fan is narrow. It often happens if you use the wiggle technique incorrectly, especially working with 3D fans. Your stem will get too long if you grip the fan too high using the pinching technique, and if you dip the fan into the glue up to the middle of its length.
If the base of the fan is short, you will end up with a poor attachment, it will be inconvenient to attach the fan, and excess glue will appear.
This often happens when you work improperly using on tape technique with large volumes, making an excessive shift of the lash to the right, or when you dip only the fan’s tip into a dot of glue (1-2 mm).
Stem composition. Fans should be properly composed. If the base is flat, meaning that all extensions are assembled in one row, such stem will take more time to attach, it will look messy and heavy. You can end up with a flat base using on tape technique if you shape the fan incorrectly.
However, you can also pull a flat base together, touching the rim of the hole if you use a glue palette. Turn the fan the way you could touch the rim with only one extension in a fan and, pulling the fan out of the hole, press the base against the rim, so the fan base will get composed.
Crisscrossed stem. The crisscrossed base of the fan will make your work look dirty and will cause clumps.
You may get it when you use on tape technique while picking the fan off the tape, if one of the following mistakes was made:
• picking the fan too sharply;
• picking it in the wrong direction;
• pressing the tweezers too weakly;
• making the fan too wide;
• choosing tweezers with bits that do not come close enough.
You can compose the fan base putting it in a dot of glue. To do this, you have to dip the fan into the glue vertically without pressure.
When you pull the fan out of the glue, the base will pull together due to inertial forces.
You can also correct a crisscrossed stem in the glue holes. To do so, dip the fan into the glue and shift it towards the rim and form an even base by touching it. At the same time, it is important to move the fan toward the rim not flat-wise, but perpendicularly, otherwise, the base will fail to get composed.
- Fan width
The fan width should be about 4 mm for 3D or larger fans.
Too narrow fans — 1 to 2 mm — create the impression of thin eyelashes as if there isn’t enough volume. It might look like you just used thick single eyelash extensions. This set most probably will have gaps. The reasons for this insufficient width may be as follows:
• making mistakes when spreading lashes on the strip to create a fan;
• working with glue incorrectly
Too wide fan — 6 mm or more — will mess up the eyelash direction, and the lashes will look shaggy and messy, as if they already need a refill: uneven spacing, direction is not set correctly.
The reasons for fans being too wide:
• you don’t want to get a too narrow fan;
• thinking the wider the fans – the bigger volume it gives;
• mistakes while using on tape technique
Uniformity is the equal space between all the lashes in the fan. The whole look is affected by uneven spacing and aesthetically it does not look good, the gaps might appear, except eyelash direction getting affected, the fans twist, making the eyelashes shaggy.
The reasons for a non-uniform spaced lashes in fans:
• you initially spread the fan non-uniformly;
• the fan loses its uniformity while you remove it from the strip (it happens when you pull the lashes in the wrong direction, you do it too fast, or the tweezers you use are not good for this purpose);
• the fan loses its uniformity when you dip it into the glue and place the fan.
This kind of set looks a bit “bald" and patchy because the fan is too wide, the lashes from alongside fans do not hide the gaps in between.
How to create the perfect fan and set the space correctly? You should practice a lot. Create fans without a client: take a ruler, a sponge, make measurements and keep only those fans that turned out ideal and throw away the rest of them.
Different techniques may provoke different mistakes if you have not completely mastered them all yet. For instance, if you use a wiggle technique, you may get a long base, and if you use peel and pop method, the fans might turn out too wide. Therefore, while practicing a certain technique, it is very important to do everything the right way. Otherwise, repeating the same mistake every training will sustain the incorrect technique, which is hard to get rid of in the future, instead of developing your skills and enhancing your proficiency.