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How to choose the right eyelash extension style for your clients

Squirrel effect


Eye styling implies choosing the correct lash mapping, based on the client’s eye anatomy peculiarities: eye depth, width, shape, eyebrows position, etc. Correct styling serves to highlight your best features and hide flaws. Oftentimes, eyelash extensions look bad and don’t suit the client’s eye shape even if done technically correct. If the overall client’s image without the lash extensions looks more harmonious and beautiful than with them, that means that mapping was chosen incorrectly.

Eye styling techniques

There are different ways to change the eye shape. You can do it by choosing the appropriate:

  1. length
  2. thickness
  3. curl
  4. color
  5. effect


Basic curls

From the styling perspective, the lager the curl, the more it rounds and opens eyes and the smaller it is, the more it elongates and narrows them.

Moreover, the smaller the curl, the more natural lash extensions look and vice versa.


Basic effects

An effect is a way of spreading extensions lengths along the eyelid with the purpose of creating a specific shape.

The basic eye styling includes 5 main effects. Below, you can see the mappings illustrating these effects. The lash maps don’t show a decrease in length of the eyelashes in the anagen phase and in the outer corners. However, you should take these features into account, when using any lash map to apply markings.

  • 1. Kitten eye effect

The kitten eye effect implies that the extensions increase in length from the inner corner to the outer one. With the kitten eye effect, extensions in the outer corner are always longer than in the middle of the eye. The extensions length can be different but lash artists should always mind the condition of the natural lashes in order not to overweight them.

Benefits: it elongates and narrows the eye shape, and lifts the outer corners. Using small curls can make this effect more dramatic, while large curls make it look less noticeable.

  • 2. Rounding effect

The rounding effect imitates the lengths of the natural lashes, meaning that the longest lashes should be placed in the central part of the eye and the shortest in the inner and outer corners. You can use any lengths, taking into account the condition of the natural lashes.

The rounding effect is contrary to the kitten eye effect. It rounds and opens the shape of the eye. Using large curls can make this effect more dramatic, while small curls make it look less noticeable.

  • 3. Squirrel effect

The classic version of the squirrel effect features maximum extensions length in the second third of the eyelid, which is approximately between the middle of the eye and its outer corner.

However, the squirrel effect has some variations with the emphasis shifted slightly to the middle of the eye or, on the contrary, to the outer corner. It is commonly done to emphasize or conceal the length or lift the outer corner of the eye. Any lengths can also be used.

Benefits: it elongates and narrows the shape of the eye as well as lifts outer corners.

  • 4. Natural eye

The natural eye effect is very easy to achieve: we make a transition from the minimum eyelash length in the inner corner (about 5 mm) on about 1/4 of the eyelid to the main eyelash length. With the natural eye effect, this length shouldn’t exceed the length of natural lashes very much. On the remaining 3/4 of the eyelid, we use the same length (excluding the eyelashes in the growing phase and the last eyelashes in the outer corners the same way as with any other effect).

Benefits: with a small curl, the effect elongates an eye shape, and with a large one, it rounds it.

  • 5. Doll eye effect

The doll eye effect is achieved similarly to the natural eye one. However, the overall extensions length is much greater. The lengths are placed as follows: on about 1/5 of the eyelid, we make a transition from the minimum extensions length in the inner corner to the main length on the rest of the eyelid. The main length in this effect is significantly greater than the length of the natural lashes. You can make them as long as the condition of the natural lashes allows. The doll eye effect is most often performed in large curls, and it is emphasized by them as well. It is rarely used for classic sets but is often combined with larger volumes.

Benefits: being the most vivid and noticeable effect, it also makes eyes more round.

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