I bet all of us have heard the infamous question "what is the best glue?" Plain as it may sound, actually, there is one.
It is the one that works for you. And though they come in different specifications, colors and brands, somehow one and the same glue can perform differently for different people.
There is a zillion of things to keep in mind, so plenty of them may go wrong. Let us go over a few of them.
Say, for fast-drying glues, if for some reason, it takes an extra moment longer to isolate, the extension will still stick, but the trick is that it may be a little too dry for a good bond. Then, having completed a perfect set, one may be surprised to hear a client calling within a week or so, saying her extensions fell off.
Or otherwise, when a glue dries longer, one can hold it for a while only to see the extension come off after removing tweezers. You name it.
In order different glues worked well, there is a couple of basic things to keep in mind:
1. Glue specifications.
Normally, label will show the drying time. Mind, however, that glue dry time is much subject to environment conditions and it will take the same adhesive different time to set in dry and wet climate.
2. Amount of glue.
It's simple, more glue will dry longer than less (obviously, that's why drops last tens of minutes, while glue on extensions will go dry in seconds or sooner).
3. Temperature & humidity.
These normally go together. Since semi-permanent glues "dry" from moisture, having the right temperature/humidity range is crucial.
4. Natural lash porosity.
Other things being equal, the higher the porosity, the better the hold.
5. Primers, boosters & prep.
Whatever the declared glue drying time and hold, lack of proper preparation will kill retention, while different pre- and after treatments may both add to retention and have effect on glue drying and/or setting time.
Be the adhesive boss. Glue is there to help you, and you serve your client. If specifications say it's very fast and extreme hold, but you need more time to do it right, or, alternatively, it says very gentle, but slow, and you can't wait until it catches the lash, think if it worth it.
You are the boss, and if you are confident and comfortable, chances are your client and their lashes will be as well. It is not that you should avoid trying something new (there are manikin heads after all), but rather that often you will know better how a glue works for you in your specific environments, with your techniques and practices.
A small tip: glue would "dry" sooner at the drop walls because of contact with air and moisture. Using right dipping technique and the right drop will help to always tap on fresh glue and the drop to go longer.